The Beauty of Les Alpilles

Welcome to the countryside. In this first article, I'll take you through the rugged charm of the Alpilles mountains, the olive groves, and the hidden villages that make Provence so magical.

The Alpilles are a small limestone range that rise from the Crau plain like the spine of some ancient beast. They are not tall mountains — the highest point barely reaches 498 metres — but their presence is enormous. The white rock glares in the summer heat, and in winter they take on a pewter colour that makes the whole landscape look like an old engraving.

The Olive Groves

What makes the Alpilles special is not the rock but what grows around it. Ancient olive trees, twisted by centuries of mistral wind, cling to the hillsides. Some of these trees are over a thousand years old. They were here before the Crusaders passed through, before the Popes fled to Avignon, before everything we call history in this region.

In autumn, the olives ripen from green to black, and the harvest begins. Families come together to beat the branches with long poles, catching the fruit in nets spread below. The oil pressed from Alpilles olives has a distinctive peppery bite that catches the back of the throat — the hallmark of great Provençal olive oil.

The Hidden Villages

Les Baux-de-Provence clings to the cliffs of the Alpilles like an eagle's nest. In the Middle Ages it was a powerful lordship, home to troubadours and poets. Now it is a village of honey-coloured stone and breathtaking views. Come in September, before the crowds thin out completely, and you can still feel the weight of history in the narrow streets.