A Day Chasing Lavender in Provence

We woke up at 4:30 with the intention of getting an early start. Unfortunately, I hadn't factored in how long it takes for my wife and youngest daughter to shower and dry their hair. Our eldest stayed home to study for her Brevet, so it was just the three of us on this one.

By the time I'd loaded the car with the electric cooler box and everything else we needed, we finally pulled away at 5:40. Not exactly the departure time I'd had in mind, and if I'm honest, it made for one slightly grumpy driver.

Our mood improved quickly. Just before Mallemort we stopped as the sun rose behind the Luberon, casting a golden glow across the Canal de Provence. It was one of those moments where you simply have to pull over and appreciate what you're seeing.

First Lavender of the Day

At 7:13 we spotted our first lavender fields. A quick stop for a few photos soon turned into another when we found a field where rows of lavender stood beside a field of sunflowers, two colours arguing politely over the same stretch of dirt. Unfortunately, a group had decided to turn the middle of the field into their own private photography studio. After waiting patiently for about fifteen minutes, hoping they'd finish, we eventually moved on.

Spiderwebs, Bees and a Reluctant Daughter

One thing I'd never noticed before is that almost every lavender row begins with dozens of spiderwebs. It makes sense once you think about it. The insects drawn in by the scent get blown into the webs by the wind. It also explains why little girls become rather reluctant to walk down the rows when Dad wants "just one more photo."

Lavender fields in full bloom are essentially functioning beehives at ground level, and the bees were not shy about reminding us of that.

One particularly beautiful field had endless rows disappearing into the horizon, Mont Ventoux hazy in the distance. Sadly, it too was occupied, this time by a family seemingly determined to use every last gigabyte of their cloud storage. Once they'd finished, we grabbed a few photos and moved on. I also tried filming the fields with my drone but had trouble connecting it to my phone. In the end I flew it on the controller alone, and I still haven't worked up the courage to check the footage.

Wheat and Lavender, Side by Side

Just off the beaten track we came across a wheat field growing right alongside a lavender field, gold and purple sharing a single fence line. It's the kind of contrast that photographs better than I expected, and we lingered there a while longer than planned.

After a busy morning we returned to the Petit U in Valensole for a litre of milk and some instant coffee. It might sound odd, but instant coffee mixed with cold milk makes a surprisingly good iced coffee, and it's become one of our favourite road trip treats.

A Detour to Lac de Sainte-Croix

Our original plan had been to spend the rest of the day around Valensole, but my wife had discovered the day before that Lac de Sainte-Croix wasn't far away. I already knew that and had deliberately not mentioned it, because I knew it would mean a detour. I'm very glad she did.

On the way we drove through Riez, where the Sunday market was in full swing, then found ourselves stuck behind a farmer moving his flock of sheep through the streets to another field. Nobody seemed particularly bothered, and after about twenty minutes we were on our way again.

When we reached the lake we stopped at one of the viewpoints before making our way down to the bridge. The water was unbelievably turquoise, and watching people paddle out toward the entrance of the Gorges du Verdon made us wish we'd brought our swimming gear. Our youngest daughter certainly wished we had. Determined to swim, she convinced us to look for children's swimwear, but I couldn't bring myself to pay the asking price for a child's bikini. We headed back to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie instead.

Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Almost Missed

Finding parking proved to be another adventure. We drove all the way to the top of the village before deciding the walk back down, and more importantly back up, wasn't appealing in the afternoon heat. I dropped my wife and daughter near the centre while they searched for swimwear, and as if by magic, a parking space opened up directly in front of me. Sometimes Provence smiles on you.

While they were shopping, I wandered into the village with my camera and realised what we'd nearly missed. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is stunning. Narrow streets, old stone buildings, hidden corners, flowers everywhere. It's one of those villages where every corner offers another photograph.

The Sorbet Incident

By the time I met up with my wife and daughter, swimming could wait for another day. We kept exploring instead, until my daughter asked for an ice cream. Mine was salted caramel topped with a lemon and thyme sorbet, which in hindsight wasn't my brightest decision. Sorbet melts much faster than ice cream, and while I struggled to keep mine under control, my nine year old never stood a chance. While desperately trying to save the rapidly melting top scoop, it detached itself from the cone and landed squarely on my wife's shorts, leg and foot.

From that moment, everything became sticky. Back at the car I helped clean her leg and foot with what felt like half a packet of wet wipes. Her shoes, however, remained permanently sticky, and in the French countryside, sticky things attract flies. Lots of flies. Fortunately we'd bought a fly swatter the previous day and it happened to be in the car. Every time we eliminated one persistent passenger, another would wander in through an open door or window somewhere down the road.

Behind the Lavender Tractor

Just before reaching Valensole again we found ourselves behind a tractor pulling a trailer loaded with freshly harvested lavender. Even with the windows closed, the fragrance found its way in through the air conditioning. I rolled the windows down without giving the flies a second thought. For several kilometres we simply followed the tractor at its leisurely pace, surrounded by the scent of freshly cut lavender. Sometimes the best moments happen when you're forced to slow down.

Back to Valensole, Judge for Yourselves

Back in Valensole we made a quick stop for a toilet break before continuing to one of the most famous fields in the area, the site where a UFO was reportedly seen back in 1965. Whether you believe the story or not, the lavender certainly didn't disappoint. If anything, the fields seemed even more vibrant now than they had that morning. Under the afternoon sun the purple seemed almost to glow.

With the temperature climbing steadily, we ate our picnic in the air conditioned comfort of the car on the way home. By 4:30 that afternoon we were back, tired, slightly sunburnt, smelling faintly of lavender, with memory cards full of photos and enough stories to keep us smiling for quite some time. All in all, I'd call that a very good day's work.